If you planted an almond tree this year, late summer is one of those times when it is easy to look at the tree, see a bunch of green leaves, and think your work is basically finished until next spring.

I would not do that.

The first year after planting is one of the most important years in the life of an almond tree, and late summer is a particularly important transition period. Your tree has spent spring and summer trying to establish roots, push new shoots, develop branches, and adjust to completely different soil and weather conditions than it had before planting.

Now the job begins to change.

Instead of trying to make the tree grow as fast as possible, late summer is when we want that new growth to start maturing. The tree needs adequate moisture, a clean and protected root zone, healthy leaves, and enough time for young wood to harden before colder weather arrives.

Ty Ty says this is one of those times when doing the basics correctly is far more important than doing a lot.

In plain English, there are three big things I want you concentrating on with a first-year almond tree in late summer:

1. Get the watering right and gradually adjust it as fall approaches.
2. Clean up and protect the root zone, trunk, and developing structure.
3. Stop pushing tender new growth and let the almond tree naturally harden off for fall and winter.

If you get those three things right, you are giving that young tree a much better chance to go into dormancy healthy and return ready for another strong growing season.

If you are still researching almond varieties or planning a home orchard, visit Ty Ty Nursery’s almond trees to compare almond trees for sale, available sizes, growing-zone information, and current availability.

Why First-Year Almond Tree Care Matters So Much

A first-year almond tree is not simply a smaller version of an established tree.

It is still rebuilding and expanding its root system.

That is important because what you see above ground does not always tell you what is happening below ground.

You might have several feet of leafy growth and assume the tree is completely established. Meanwhile, much of the working root system may still be concentrated around the original planting area.

That young root system has to supply water to every leaf and shoot on the tree while also expanding into the surrounding soil.

This is one reason young almond trees can respond quickly to drought, excessive water, heavy weed competition, or poor drainage.

The first year is about building a foundation.

You are developing roots.

You are developing the trunk.

You are beginning to develop the scaffold branches that may eventually support years of nut production.

You are not trying to squeeze the maximum possible almond harvest out of a newly planted tree.

Think long term.

A healthy almond tree is an investment in future harvests, not a one-season vegetable plant.

What an Almond Tree Is Doing in Late Summer

During spring and early summer, young almond growth is often tender, green, and flexible.

As the season progresses, that growth needs to mature.

The tree gradually shifts away from rapid vegetative growth and begins preparing its shoots, buds, trunk, and root system for shorter days and colder temperatures.

That process is often called hardening off.

You want it to happen naturally.

You do not have to shock the tree into dormancy.

You do not need to starve it of water.

You do not need to cut half the canopy off.

And you definitely do not need to dump a pile of fertilizer around it to get “one last growth spurt.”

Your job is mainly to keep the tree healthy while avoiding practices that encourage excessive tender new growth too late in the year.

1. Get Late-Summer Watering Right

If there is one thing I would watch closely with a first-year almond tree, it is soil moisture.

Young almond trees need consistent moisture during establishment because their root systems are still developing.

But almonds also do not appreciate sitting in permanently saturated soil.

Roots need both water and oxygen.

Too little water creates drought stress.

Too much water can reduce oxygen around the roots and increase the risk of root and crown problems.

The goal is balance.

Don’t Stop Watering Just Because September Is Coming

This is especially important for gardeners in the South and other warm climates.

The calendar may say late summer, but Mother Nature may still be serving up 90-degree afternoons.

September can remain hot and dry in a lot of places.

If your soil is becoming dry several inches down, your newly planted almond tree may still need water.

Do not intentionally let a first-year almond tree become severely drought-stressed because you think dry soil will make it go dormant faster.

Dormancy is a natural seasonal process.

Drought stress is stress.

They are not the same thing.

Check the Soil Before You Turn on the Hose

At the same time, do not water just because it is Tuesday.

I am not a fan of rigid watering schedules for newly planted trees because every yard is different.

Sandy soil may dry rapidly.

Clay soil can stay wet much longer.

A tree growing through a hot, windy week may need water sooner than the same tree after several cloudy days and two inches of rain.

Push a finger a few inches into the soil around the root zone.

If the soil below the surface is still cool and noticeably moist, another soaking may not be necessary yet.

If it is becoming dry, it is time to water.

Ty Ty says look below the surface.

A dry-looking top layer does not automatically mean the roots are dry.

Likewise, a quick shower can make the surface look soaked without putting enough moisture deep into the root zone.

Deep Watering Beats Constant Shallow Sprinkling

When your young almond tree does need water, water it thoroughly.

A slow hose, drip system, or soaker hose can allow water to move into the soil instead of running across the surface.

Frequent shallow sprinkling tends to keep moisture near the surface.

We want the developing root system encouraged to explore a larger volume of soil.

That does not mean flooding the tree for hours every day.

It means providing a useful soaking and then allowing the soil to begin drying appropriately before watering again.

Pay Attention to Drainage

Almond trees perform best in well-drained soil.

If water stands around your tree for long periods after rainfall or irrigation, the answer is not to add even more water.

First-year trees can be especially vulnerable because their roots have not yet spread far enough to escape a poorly drained planting area.

If you routinely find soggy soil several days after watering, reduce irrigation frequency and evaluate drainage.

Gradually Reduce Water as Fall Arrives

This is where late-summer almond care becomes different from midsummer almond care.

As days become shorter, temperatures begin falling, and the tree’s growth slows, water demand usually decreases.

You can gradually reduce irrigation as the weather dictates.

Do not flip a switch and suddenly stop watering.

Just let the changing season guide you.

If the soil stays moist longer, wait longer between waterings.

If you receive soaking fall rain, you may not need supplemental irrigation at all for a period.

If you experience a hot dry spell, check the soil and water when needed.

Plain English: keep the roots healthy, but do not keep trying to recreate July when the tree is trying to move toward fall.

2. Clean Up and Protect the Root Zone, Trunk, and Young Structure

The second big job is to inspect the tree from the ground up.

Late summer is the perfect time to see what has changed since planting.

Maybe grass has moved back into the planting area.

Maybe weeds have taken over the mulch ring.

Maybe a stake tie is getting tight.

Maybe suckers are growing below the graft.

Maybe the trunk has become exposed to intense afternoon sun.

Those little things matter much more on a young tree than they do on a mature almond tree.

Get Grass and Weeds Away From the Tree

Weed competition is a major issue during the establishment years.

Grass does not look threatening, but a thick stand of turf has a tremendous root system close to the soil surface.

Those roots are competing with your almond tree for water and nutrients.

If you are carefully watering a new tree planted in the middle of thick grass, part of what you are doing is watering the lawn.

Create a clean area around the tree where turf and aggressive weeds are not growing directly against the trunk and root zone.

Do this carefully.

A string trimmer can damage a young almond trunk in seconds.

Mechanical wounds around a young trunk are not cosmetic. They can seriously damage the tissue that moves water and carbohydrates through the tree.

Hand pulling or careful shallow weed removal is much safer close to the trunk.

Refresh the Mulch, but Don’t Make a Mulch Volcano

A reasonable layer of organic mulch can be extremely useful around a newly planted almond tree.

Mulch helps conserve moisture.

It moderates soil temperature.

It reduces weed growth.

And it creates a visual buffer that can help keep lawn equipment away from the trunk.

But there is one rule I want you to remember:

Keep mulch away from direct contact with the trunk.

Do not pile mulch into a mountain around the bark.

Ty Ty says think doughnut, not volcano.

Spread the mulch outward across the root zone while leaving a little open space immediately around the trunk.

That allows the trunk to stay dry and visible.

Inspect the Graft Union

Most named almond trees sold for home orchards are grafted.

The upper part of the tree is the named almond variety.

The lower root system belongs to the rootstock.

Look for shoots developing from below the graft union.

Those are rootstock suckers.

If you allow one of those suckers to become dominant, you can eventually end up with a large amount of growth that is not your named almond variety.

Remove rootstock suckers while they are small.

And keep the graft union above the soil and mulch line rather than burying it.

Protect Young Almond Bark From Sunburn

This is something almond growers in hot sunny climates should pay particular attention to.

Young almond bark can be sensitive to intense sun exposure.

If a young tree has a very open canopy, the trunk and scaffold limbs may receive direct afternoon sun that they were not previously exposed to.

Sunburned bark is not just ugly.

Damaged tissue can become more vulnerable to secondary problems.

Whitewashing exposed young trunks and limbs with an appropriate diluted white interior latex paint is a traditional orchard practice used to reflect sunlight and reduce bark temperature.

If your tree already has good natural shade over the trunk, you may not need to do anything.

The point is simply to inspect it rather than assuming bark cannot sunburn.

Check Stakes and Ties

Almond trees usually do not need permanent staking when they are planted correctly and can support themselves.

But some newly planted trees are temporarily staked because of wind, loose soil, or individual circumstances.

If yours is staked, check the ties.

A tie that was loose in March can become tight by late August.

Never allow a tie to cut into the trunk.

Support should stabilize a tree, not strangle it.

Begin Thinking About the Future Scaffold Structure

Almond trees are commonly trained to an open-center or modified-vase form with several strong scaffold branches.

The goal is eventually to create a sturdy framework that can support future nut production.

But late summer is not the time I want you standing there aggressively cutting everything that does not look perfect.

Observe the tree.

Notice which branches have wide, strong angles.

Notice which branches are crossing.

Notice shoots growing straight up from places where you probably will not want permanent growth.

Make notes or take pictures.

Then handle the major structural pruning during the appropriate dormant period when the leaves are gone and you can clearly see the framework.

Check for Deer, Rabbit, and Rodent Risk

If wildlife is common where you live, now is the time to think about winter protection.

Do not wait until you discover that a deer rubbed half the bark off your tree or rabbits chewed around the trunk.

Young trees are much easier for animals to damage because the bark is thin and the trunk is small.

Use an appropriate cage or guard where necessary, and make sure anything placed around the trunk does not stay wet against the bark or become too tight as the tree grows.

3. Stop Pushing Tender Growth and Let the Almond Tree Harden Off

This is probably the most important late-summer mindset change.

Spring encourages gardeners to think:

Grow, grow, grow.

Late summer requires a little more patience.

Healthy growth now needs time to mature.

Be Careful With Late-Summer Nitrogen

Almond trees do require nutrients, and nitrogen is important to healthy tree growth.

But timing matters.

Giving a young almond tree a heavy dose of nitrogen late in the growing season can stimulate soft new shoots when the tree should increasingly be preparing for cooler temperatures.

Tender new growth produced very late may not have enough time to mature properly before cold weather.

That is why “more fertilizer” does not automatically mean “better almond tree care.”

If your tree made healthy growth this season, resist the temptation to force another flush just because you want the tree to get bigger before winter.

If Growth Was Poor, Figure Out Why Before Fertilizing

Suppose your almond tree barely grew this year.

It is natural to think it must need fertilizer.

Maybe.

But maybe not.

Ask a few questions first.

Is the tree getting enough sunlight?

Is the planting area staying too wet?

Did it go through drought stress?

Is thick grass competing with the roots?

Is the soil pH inappropriate?

Was the tree planted too deeply?

Is the graft buried?

Has the trunk been damaged?

Are insects or disease affecting the foliage?

Fertilizer cannot fix every problem.

A soil test is a much better tool than guessing.

Save Major Almond Tree Pruning for Dormancy

Late summer is also not the time to give a healthy first-year almond tree a dramatic haircut.

Major pruning is generally easier and more appropriate while the tree is dormant.

Once the leaves are gone, you can clearly see branch structure and make thoughtful decisions about the future framework.

Obviously, if you have a broken limb, severely damaged branch, or clearly dead material, that can be addressed.

But do not remove a large amount of healthy foliage just because you want the tree to look neat before fall.

Healthy Leaves Are Still Working for You

Leaves are producing carbohydrates.

Those carbohydrates support roots, developing wood, buds, and stored energy.

You want healthy foliage functioning as long as the season naturally allows.

That is one reason unnecessary late-summer defoliation or heavy pruning can work against your establishment goals.

Don’t Be in a Hurry for Almonds

If a very young almond tree flowers or tries to set a few nuts, it can be tempting to let them mature.

I understand.

You bought an almond tree because you want almonds.

But young trees have limited resources.

Roots, trunk growth, scaffold development, leaf production, and nuts all require energy.

During the early establishment years, developing a strong tree is more important than proving it can hold a handful of nuts.

Young almond trees are generally better served by concentrating on structure and bearing wood before being asked to support meaningful crops.

Plain English: build the tree first.

There will be time for almonds.

Let Fall Leaf Change Happen Naturally

Almond trees are deciduous.

They are supposed to lose their leaves.

I mention this because every fall somebody looks at a young fruit or nut tree turning yellow and assumes it is dying.

Seasonal leaf yellowing and leaf drop are normal.

The exact timing depends on the variety, climate, temperature, day length, moisture, and other environmental conditions.

Do not try to keep an almond tree green all winter by fertilizing it in October.

Dormancy is not a problem.

Dormancy is part of the life cycle.

Give Your Almond Tree a Late-Summer Health Inspection

While you are doing these three main jobs, take five minutes and really look at the tree.

Late summer leaves can tell you a lot.

Look for Patterns, Not One Ugly Leaf

One brown leaf does not mean your almond tree is dying.

One chewed leaf does not mean you need to spray the entire yard.

Plants live outside.

Leaves get sunburned, torn, chewed, spotted, and weathered.

What I pay more attention to is a pattern.

Is the entire canopy yellowing months before normal fall color?

Are multiple shoots wilting?

Are leaves developing widespread spotting?

Do you see unusual curling across the tree?

Is there gum coming from damaged areas of the trunk or limbs?

Is the bark cracked or injured?

Patterns deserve investigation.

Keep the Area Around the Tree Clean

Do not let rotten fruit, heavily diseased leaves, weeds, and thick vegetation pile up around the trunk.

A clean root zone makes it easier to inspect the tree, manage water, discourage rodents, and notice developing problems.

This does not mean you need a perfectly sterile circle of bare dirt.

It simply means basic orchard sanitation matters.

A Simple Late-Summer Almond Tree Checklist

• Check soil moisture several inches below the surface.
• Water deeply when the root zone begins drying.
• Avoid frequent shallow sprinkling.
• Do not keep the planting area permanently saturated.
• Gradually reduce irrigation as temperatures cool and soil stays moist longer.
• Remove grass and weeds competing around the young tree.
• Maintain an appropriate layer of organic mulch.
• Keep mulch away from direct contact with the trunk.
• Check the graft union and remove rootstock suckers.
• Inspect the young trunk and scaffold branches for sunburn.
• Check stakes and ties so they are not cutting into the tree.
• Plan deer, rabbit, or rodent protection where needed.
• Avoid unnecessary heavy nitrogen fertilizer late in the season.
• Do not aggressively prune healthy growth in late summer.
• Save major structural pruning for dormancy.
• Inspect foliage for patterns of pest, disease, or environmental stress.
• Allow healthy leaves to remain until natural fall leaf drop.
• Prioritize tree establishment over first-year nut production.

Common Late-Summer Almond Tree Mistakes

Mistake #1: Watering Every Day No Matter What

A watering schedule that ignores rainfall, soil type, temperature, and drainage is not really a watering plan.

Check the soil.

Water when the tree needs it.

Mistake #2: Completely Stopping Water Because Fall Is Coming

A hot, dry September can still stress a newly planted almond tree.

Reduce irrigation as conditions change, not simply because the calendar changed.

Mistake #3: Letting Grass Grow Against the Trunk

Grass competes with young roots for water and nutrients.

It also encourages people to bring string trimmers dangerously close to thin young bark.

Mistake #4: Piling Mulch Around the Trunk

Mulch belongs over the root zone, not packed around the bark.

Keep the trunk visible.

Mistake #5: Fertilizing Heavily Because the Tree Looks Small

First-year establishment is happening below ground too.

Do not judge success only by tree height.

Late nitrogen can also push tender growth at exactly the wrong time.

Mistake #6: Doing Major Pruning in Late Summer

Save major structure-building cuts for dormancy.

That gives you a clear view of the branch framework and avoids unnecessary removal of healthy late-season foliage.

Mistake #7: Trying to Produce Nuts Too Soon

Young almond trees need to build bearing wood and strong scaffold branches.

Establishment comes first.

Frequently Asked Questions About First-Year Almond Trees

How often should I water a newly planted almond tree?

There is no perfect schedule for every tree. Check the soil every few days during hot weather and water deeply when the root zone is beginning to dry. Sandy soils generally dry more quickly than heavy soils. Rainfall, temperature, wind, and drainage all affect how often a young almond tree needs water.

Should I water almond trees in the fall?

Yes, if conditions are dry and the soil needs moisture. The goal is to gradually reduce irrigation as temperatures cool and water demand falls, not abruptly drought-stress the tree.

Should I fertilize my almond tree in late summer?

Avoid automatically applying heavy nitrogen fertilizer late in the growing season. Excessive nitrogen can stimulate tender new growth when the tree should be moving toward fall hardening. Base fertilizer decisions on tree growth, soil conditions, and preferably a soil test.

When should I prune a young almond tree?

Initial training begins when the tree is young, but major structural pruning is generally best handled during dormancy. Almond trees are commonly trained to an open-center or modified-vase system with strong scaffold branches.

Should almond trees be mulched?

Mulch can be very beneficial for young almond trees because it conserves soil moisture, reduces soil heating, and suppresses weeds. Spread it over the root zone but keep it away from direct contact with the trunk.

Should I let a first-year almond tree produce almonds?

The early establishment years should concentrate on building roots, trunk strength, scaffold branches, and future bearing wood. Removing early fruit allows the tree to put more energy into establishing the structure that will eventually support larger harvests.

Why are my almond tree leaves turning yellow in fall?

Almond trees are deciduous, so yellowing leaves and eventual leaf drop are normal parts of the transition into winter dormancy. Widespread premature yellowing during the active growing season can have other causes, so timing matters.

Where is the best place to plant an almond tree?

Almond trees generally need full sun and well-drained soil. Avoid low areas that stay waterlogged. Because almonds bloom early, local spring frost patterns should also be considered when choosing a planting location.

Where can I buy almond trees online?

You can browse almond trees for sale online at Ty Ty Nursery and compare current varieties, sizes, USDA growing-zone information, pollination information, and availability.

Choosing the Right Almond Tree for Your Home Orchard

Good almond tree care actually starts before the tree ever arrives.

You need a variety suited to your climate.

You need enough winter chill for that particular variety.

You need to consider how early it flowers and whether spring frost is a serious concern in your area.

You also need to know whether the almond variety is self-fertile or whether another compatible almond tree is recommended for pollination.

That is why searches such as best almond trees for home gardens, self-pollinating almond trees, cold hardy almond trees, almond trees for sale, and how to grow almond trees are not all asking exactly the same question.

The best almond tree for Georgia may not be the best almond tree for somebody growing in a colder part of the country.

Before ordering, look at the USDA growing zone, mature tree size, pollination requirements, and local climate.

Ty Ty Nursery makes that comparison easier. Visit Ty Ty Nursery’s almond trees to see the varieties and sizes that are currently available.

Where Is the Best Place to Buy Almond Trees Online?

Now let me switch gears for a minute.

If you found this article while searching for almond trees for sale, buy almond trees online, self-pollinating almond trees for sale, cold hardy almond trees, or simply the best place to buy almond trees online, I want to explain why we believe Ty Ty Nursery should be at the top of your list.

We’ve been doing this for a long time.

Our goal is to make buying trees easier, more affordable, and less intimidating while giving customers real support after the sale.

1. Prices Up to 68% Lower Than Other Nurseries

A home orchard can get expensive quickly.

If you want several almond trees, fruit trees, berry plants, or nut trees, every dollar per plant matters.

Ty Ty Nursery advertises prices up to 68% lower than competitors, helping customers stretch their planting budget farther.

You can check current pricing for yourself on Ty Ty Nursery’s almond trees.

2. Fast In-Season Shipping — Plant in Days the Ty Ty Way

When it is planting season, most gardeners want to plant.

They do not want to place an order and then spend weeks or months wondering when the tree will arrive.

Ty Ty Nursery is built around fast in-season shipping, with eligible trees moving quickly when the plants are available and conditions are appropriate.

That is where our saying comes from:

Plant in days the Ty Ty way.

Actual ship timing depends on plant availability, your destination, weather, dormancy, and seasonal conditions, but fast in-season fulfillment is one of the things we work hard to deliver.

3. Free One-Year Plantsurance Guarantee

Living trees are different from ordinary merchandise.

They deal with transplanting, weather, soil, temperature swings, drought, rainfall, and Mother Nature.

Ty Ty Nursery includes a free one-year Plantsurance guarantee on qualifying plants instead of selling that one-year protection as an extra paid add-on.

Customers should always review the current Plantsurance terms and claim requirements so they understand exactly how the guarantee works.

4. Lifetime True-to-Name Guarantee

This is especially important with almond trees and other fruit and nut trees.

You may care for a tree for years before it produces enough nuts to fully confirm what it is.

That is why Ty Ty Nursery backs its plants with a Lifetime True-to-Name Guarantee.

Variety accuracy should matter for as long as it takes your tree to prove what it is.

For a long-term orchard plant, that protection means something.

5. Almond Trees Ship Directly to Your Door

You do not have to spend Saturday driving around town hoping a local garden center has the almond variety you want.

You do not have to wrestle a heavy nursery pot into the back of your car, spill potting soil everywhere, drive home with branches touching the roof, and then unload the whole thing again.

Order almond trees online from Ty Ty Nursery and have your plants shipped directly to your door during the appropriate shipping season.

That becomes even more convenient when you are planting several trees at once.

6. Serving Gardeners Since 1978

Ty Ty Nursery has roots in Ty Ty, Georgia going back to 1978.

That is nearly five decades of growing seasons.

Over that kind of time you see just about everything.

Hot years.

Cold years.

Wet springs.

Droughts.

New varieties.

Old favorites.

Catalog ordering.

Online ordering.

The way people buy plants has changed tremendously.

The fundamentals of growing plants have not.

7. Google Top Quality Store With a 4.5 Store Rating

Ty Ty Nursery is currently recognized as a Google Top Quality Store with a 4.5 store rating.

You can view the current Google Store rating here:

View Ty Ty Nursery’s Google Store Profile

Ratings can change as customers add new feedback, which is why we encourage shoppers to check the live page and see the current information for themselves.

8. A- Rating With the Better Business Bureau

Ty Ty Plant Nursery currently carries an A- rating with the Better Business Bureau.

You can review our BBB business profile here:

View Ty Ty Nursery’s BBB Business Profile

When you are buying a tree you hope will be growing in your yard for many years, researching the company behind it makes sense.

9. Live Human Plant Experts in Ty Ty, Georgia

This one matters to us.

When customers have a question about an almond tree, sometimes they want to talk to a real person who understands plants.

Ty Ty Nursery’s plant support is based right here in Ty Ty, Georgia.

We do not outsource our plant customer service overseas.

We believe customers should have access to live human plant experts when they need help choosing varieties, understanding growing zones, planting trees, or figuring out what is happening with a plant after it arrives.

Technology has its place, but we do not believe a customer with a living tree should be limited to an AI-only customer-service experience.

Sometimes a person simply wants to explain what is happening with their tree and get help from another human being.

Why Grow Almond Trees at Home?

An almond tree is one of those plants that gives you more than one reason to grow it.

The obvious reason is almonds.

Homegrown nuts can be eaten fresh after proper drying, roasted, used for baking, added to recipes, or stored for later use.

But almond trees also provide attractive spring blossoms and can become a beautiful part of a home orchard.

For gardeners who already grow peaches, plums, apples, pears, figs, berries, or pecans, adding an almond tree can make the edible landscape even more interesting.

The biggest thing is choosing a variety that fits your climate and then giving it time to establish.

This is not instant gardening.

That is part of what makes it rewarding.

You plant a young tree.

You care for it.

You watch the scaffold branches develop.

You see it move through winter dormancy.

Then one spring you look outside and the tree is covered in flowers.

A few years after planting, that little tree you worried about during its first August can become a productive part of your home orchard.

Final Thoughts: Keep First-Year Almond Tree Care Simple

If you remember nothing else from this article, remember three things.

Number one: get the water right.

Keep a newly planted almond tree adequately watered during hot and dry weather, but do not keep the soil permanently saturated. As fall approaches, gradually reduce irrigation based on temperature, rainfall, and actual soil moisture.

Number two: protect the tree you spent all year establishing.

Remove weed competition. Maintain mulch without piling it against the trunk. Check the graft, remove suckers, inspect the bark, protect against wildlife, and make sure stakes or ties are not causing damage.

Number three: let the tree mature.

Do not try to force another huge burst of tender growth with excessive late nitrogen. Keep healthy leaves on the tree and save major structural pruning for dormancy.

Plain English?

Water it right.

Keep the weeds away.

Protect the trunk.

Don’t overfertilize it.

Don’t butcher it with late-summer pruning.

And give the tree time to become a tree before worrying about how many almonds it can produce.

Do those things, and you will have given your first-year almond tree a much better opportunity to transition successfully from summer into fall and eventually winter dormancy.

If you are ready to start a home almond orchard, add another pollinating variety, or compare almond trees suited to your growing zone, visit Ty Ty Nursery’s Almond Trees.

Plant it right, care for it right, and give it time. A healthy almond tree is worth the wait.